veggieburgh

Gypsy Cafe, tucked a few blocks from the Beehive in the South Side, has a yummy Sunday brunch far better than the mediocrity that is Pamela’s, and that even rivals Zenith (and really, it’s hard to compete with a vegan pie buffet). Chef Jim creates weekly theme menus (replete with Star Wars or eighties TV references) that are often fresh from the printer, and Melanie cheerfully brings out hot tea and bottomless cups of La Prima coffee.

Religious shrines, photos of bellydancers, and gilded mirrors line the purple walls, and a Steelers game is always on the radio.

Moira goes regularly on Sundays with a group of n, where n=the number of items on the brunch menu (roughly 7). The standing rule is, first person to arrive orders one of everything, and 15 minutes later, when the person who only woke up at noon stumbles in, the table is covered with brunchy goodness. We followed this pattern again on a recent halloween-themed Sunday, and shared everything: Vincent Price’s Porridge (pictured) ($8), Killer Klown Quesadillas (pictured) ($7), the Happy Halloween Halloumi Salad (pictured) ($7), the Very Scary Berry-Apple Waffle (pictured) ($8), Boris (Karloff)’s Breakfast ($9), Gorgo, the Omelette That Walked Like a Man! ($8), and It’s the Great Pumpkin Gnocci, Charlie Brown! ($9). The portions are ample; meat generally costs $1 extra and is served on the side. Each person in the group paid $12, including tip.

No one expected such life-changing porridge. Tender but articulated grains of bulghur slow-cooked with apples, raisins, walnuts, butter, and brown sugar. (Josh pointed out that he could make porridge that good if he used butter, too.) Our friend Ruth commented that she no longer associates porridge with orphans in England. Dozens of cloves of roasted garlic were embedded in the omelette, along with full bodied gorgonzola and succulent chunks of mushroom. Both dishes were divine.

Now, Moira has never had a bad dish at Gypsy. But if you don’t have enough people to order everything, go for the porridge and omelette. The other dishes are great, but not as likely to leave you in a blissful stupor. The quesadilla was perfectly fried, with mild salsa and average homefries. The plump gnocci weren’t especially flavorful on their own, but the sage sauteed in brown butter more than compensated. The halloumi cheese was a bit salty, but with a pleasing crispness that complemented the mixed greens and apple slices in the salad, which came with a sweet apple butter Dijon dressing. The vanilla pancakes and berry waffles are still better than anything at Pamela’s, but your grandma makes them better.

Though we haven’t eaten their dinner or lunch menus, they profess to be vegetarian friendly (most dishes can be made to order), and certain evenings include tarot readings and music by the Gypsy Strings.

Recommended brunch dishes:
- Apple porridge
- Gorgonzola, portobella, garlic omelette

[4 veggies]