veggieburgh

With a name like “Orchids International Vegetarian Restaurant,” how could we resist? First, a caveat: This review is based on two take-out experiences, so we’ll have to save a review of the atmosphere for later. And since it’s quite possible that the food loses something in the traveling, and in our difficulty tolerating the spice level, our rating is provisional. But we’re pleased and definitely going back. The palak paneer is the best we’ve found in the city.

Orchids’ menu spans the globe, with everything from samosa to fried rice to veggie wraps, though the main focus is southern Indian. And though it’s just around the corner from Tamarind, its atmosphere and prices are far more modest, and so we’re more generous with the rating.

Now, admittedly, we’re spice wusses (somewhat), gradually upping our tolerance over the years so that a “5″ at most restaurants in Pittsburgh is just right. But at Orchids, a “medium” was too hot for us. It was far spicier than a “5″ at Thai Cuisine, comparable, perhaps, to the condiments at Prince of India. And we failed to learn our lesson the first time; on our second phone-in order, we again requested a medium spice level. Both times were challenging, but hey, no one said food blogging was easy.

We sweated, gulped water, and chewed naan throughout the meals. But it was worth it.

First came the palak paneer ($8.25). With very firm, chewy cheese, plum tomatoes, a textured puree not at all reminiscent of baby food, and a sweet hint of cinnamon, this is the best we’ve had in Pittsburgh. Vegans note that the paneer may be substituted with potatoes or chickpeas. Then came the mulligatawny ($3), a coriander lentil soup with a light, creamy finish. Despite long pauses between sips, the spice level overcame us, and we weren’t actually able to evaluate it, other than remembering it as delightful. Note to self: Order a “3″ next time.

The gobi manchurian ($10) pales in comparison to Tamarind’s, but the cauliflower has a light breading with a satisfying crispiness. Like all Americanized faux-Chinese dishes, the sauce was an unnatural shade of gelatinous red. And it was full of red peppers and onions, which we tend to dislike when in abundance. But the texture and overall flavor were enjoyable, and we made it through the heat, sweating bite after bite. Next came the upma, an unusual concoction of cream of wheat with peas and tomatoes ($3.25). It wasn’t particularly tasty, and with so many choices on the menu, we’d recommend trying something else. Finally, we sampled the aloo paratha, a flat wheat bread stuffed with a small portion of potato and speckled with cumin seeds, which we enjoyed.

Given the vast menu and the excellent palak paneer, we plan to return. Our rating is partially based on future expectations, so we’ll let you know what happens.

Recommended:

• Palak paneer

[4 veggies]